Loan Calculator

Calculate monthly loan payments, total interest, and amortization schedule. Perfect for personal loans, auto loans, student loans, and more.

Loan Details

$
%

Optional: Extra Payment

$

Additional amount paid each month toward principal

Loan Payment Summary

Monthly Payment
$512
Total Interest
$5,720
Total Paid
$30,720
Payoff Date
Dec 2029
Total Payments
60

First Payment Breakdown

Principal: $335
Interest: $177
Remaining Balance: $24,665

How the Loan Calculator Works

Understanding loan calculations helps you make better borrowing decisions and save money.

1

Loan Details

Enter your loan amount, interest rate, and term to get started.

2

Payment Calculation

We calculate your monthly payment using the standard loan formula.

3

Interest Analysis

See how much you'll pay in total interest over the life of the loan.

4

Extra Payments

Calculate savings from making extra principal payments.

Common Loan Types

Our calculator works for various types of loans with fixed interest rates

Personal Loans

Unsecured loans for debt consolidation, home improvement, or major purchases. Typically 2-7 years with rates from 6-36%.

  • • Fixed monthly payments
  • • No collateral required
  • • Quick approval process

Auto Loans

Secured loans for vehicle purchases. The car serves as collateral, typically offering lower rates than personal loans.

  • • Lower interest rates
  • • Terms up to 7 years
  • • Vehicle as collateral

Student Loans

Education financing with various repayment options. Federal loans often have better terms than private loans.

  • • Flexible repayment options
  • • Potential loan forgiveness
  • • Deferment options

Understanding How Loan Payments Work

When you take out a loan, you're borrowing money that needs to be repaid with interest over a set period. The monthly payment stays the same throughout the loan term (assuming it's a fixed-rate loan), but what changes is how that payment gets divided between principal and interest.

In the beginning, most of your payment goes toward interest because you owe the most money. Take a $25,000 loan at 8.5% over 5 years—your monthly payment is $512. In the first month, $177 goes to interest and only $335 reduces your actual loan balance. That feels backwards, but it's how amortization works. The lender calculates interest on the outstanding balance, so when you owe more, you pay more interest.

As you make payments and your balance drops, the interest portion shrinks and more of your payment attacks the principal. By your final payment, almost the entire $512 goes to principal with just a few dollars for interest. This is why making extra payments early in the loan term has such a powerful effect—you're knocking down the principal faster, which reduces the interest charged on all future payments.

The True Cost Beyond Your Monthly Payment

The advertised interest rate doesn't tell the full story. Lenders charge various fees that increase your actual borrowing cost. The origination fee is the big one—typically 1-6% of the loan amount. On a $25,000 loan, a 3% origination fee costs you $750. Some lenders deduct this from your loan proceeds (you get $24,250 instead of $25,000), while others add it to your loan balance (you owe $25,750). Either way, you're paying for it.

Then there are processing fees, document fees, and potentially early payment penalties. That's why APR (Annual Percentage Rate) exists—it rolls all these costs into one percentage so you can compare loans fairly. A loan might advertise 7% interest but have an 8.5% APR once you factor in fees. Always compare APRs between lenders, not just interest rates.

Some loans hit you with prepayment penalties if you pay off early. Lenders use these to guarantee they'll earn a certain amount of interest. If you might pay off your loan ahead of schedule—from a bonus, inheritance, or refinancing—make sure your loan doesn't have a prepayment penalty. It's usually worth paying a slightly higher rate to avoid being locked in.

Secured vs. Unsecured: What's At Stake

Secured loans require collateral—something valuable the lender can take if you don't pay. Auto loans and mortgages are secured by the car and house. This reduces the lender's risk, so they offer lower interest rates. A well-qualified borrower might get an auto loan at 5% because the lender knows they can repossess and sell the car if needed.

Unsecured loans have no collateral backing them. Personal loans and credit cards are unsecured—if you default, the lender can sue you and send debt collectors, but they can't automatically seize your assets. Because of this higher risk, unsecured loans charge higher rates. That same borrower might pay 10-15% for an unsecured personal loan versus 5% for a secured auto loan.

The trade-off is flexibility and risk. Secured loans are cheaper but you can lose your collateral. I've seen people lose cars over missed payments during job losses. Unsecured loans cost more but your assets aren't at immediate risk—though your credit score will take a major hit if you default, and collectors will make your life difficult until the debt is paid or discharged.

The Math Behind Your Monthly Payment

Loan payments are calculated using a formula that ensures you pay off the full amount plus interest in equal installments. The formula is: M = P × [r(1 + r)^n] / [(1 + r)^n - 1], where M is your monthly payment, P is the principal loan amount, r is your monthly interest rate (annual rate divided by 12), and n is the total number of payments.

Let's break down a real example. You're borrowing $20,000 at 9% for 4 years (48 months). First, convert the annual rate to a monthly rate: 9% ÷ 12 = 0.75% or 0.0075 as a decimal. Plug into the formula: $20,000 × [0.0075(1.0075)^48] / [(1.0075)^48 - 1]. This works out to a monthly payment of $497.

Over those 48 months, you'll make $497 payments totaling $23,856. You borrowed $20,000, so $3,856 goes to interest—nearly 20% of the borrowed amount. This is why the loan term matters so much. Stretch that same loan to 6 years and your payment drops to $357 (much more manageable), but total interest jumps to $5,706. You're paying $1,850 more for the convenience of lower monthly payments.

Amortization: Where Your Money Goes Each Month

Amortization describes how your payment gets split between principal and interest over time. Each month, the lender calculates interest on the remaining balance. On that $20,000 loan at 9%, your first month's interest is $20,000 × 0.0075 = $150. Your $497 payment covers that $150 in interest, with the remaining $347 reducing your balance to $19,653.

Month two, interest is calculated on $19,653: $19,653 × 0.0075 = $147. Now $350 goes to principal. See what's happening? As the balance drops, interest drops slightly each month, and more money chips away at principal. By month 24 (halfway through), you're paying $133 in interest and $364 to principal. In the final month, you'll pay just $4 in interest with $493 hitting principal.

This amortization structure explains why extra payments have such impact early on. If you throw an extra $100 at principal in month one, that's $100 that will never accrue interest over the next 47 months. Make that same $100 extra payment in month 40, and it only saves you interest for the remaining 8 months. The earlier you attack the principal, the more you save.

Why Your Interest Rate Matters More Than You Think

Interest rate differences that seem small have enormous impacts over time. Take a $30,000 loan over 5 years. At 7% you'll pay $4,559 in interest. At 9%, interest jumps to $5,910—that's $1,351 more for just a 2% rate increase. At 12%, you're paying $8,012 in interest, nearly double the 7% scenario.

This is why your credit score is so valuable. The difference between a 720 score and a 620 score might be 4-6% in your interest rate. On that $30,000 loan, that could mean paying $3,000-$4,000 more over the loan term. Before taking out a major loan, spend a few months improving your credit if possible—pay down credit cards, fix errors on your credit report, and avoid opening new accounts. The rate reduction can save you serious money.

Rate shopping matters too. Different lenders have different risk models and overhead costs. One bank might quote you 10% while a credit union offers 7.5% for the same loan. On a $25,000 loan over 5 years, that 2.5% difference costs you $1,700. Always get quotes from at least three lenders—online lenders, credit unions, and traditional banks. Just do it within a 14-day window so credit bureaus count it as one inquiry instead of multiple hits to your score.

Real-World Loan Scenarios

Understanding loan calculations is easier when you see how real people use them. Here are five common situations showing how different loan terms, rates, and strategies affect the actual costs.

Scenario 1: The Debt Consolidation Decision

Maria has $22,000 spread across three credit cards charging 18-24% interest with minimum payments totaling $680 per month. At this pace, it'll take her 12+ years to pay off and cost over $35,000 in interest. She's approved for a 5-year personal loan at 11% with a 2% origination fee.

Running the numbers: a $22,000 loan at 11% over 5 years costs $478 per month with $6,682 in interest. Add the $440 origination fee and her total cost is $29,122. She saves $200+ per month in payments and cuts her payoff time from 12+ years to 5 years, saving over $6,000 in interest even after the loan fee. The consolidation makes sense because she's trading high-interest revolving debt for lower-interest fixed debt with a clear payoff date.

The trap to avoid: running up those credit cards again. If Maria consolidates but then charges another $10,000 on the cards, she's worse off than before—now she has both the personal loan payment and new credit card debt. Consolidation only works if you change the spending habits that created the debt in the first place.

Scenario 2: Used Car Purchase With Limited Budget

James needs a reliable car for his 60-mile daily commute. He's found a $16,000 used Honda with 45,000 miles. His credit score is 680, qualifying him for a 7.5% auto loan. He can afford $350-400 per month. Should he finance for 4 years, 5 years, or 6 years?

Four-year loan: $389/month, $2,666 total interest. Five-year loan: $320/month, $3,213 total interest. Six-year loan: $274/month, $3,730 total interest. The 4-year option fits his budget at $389 and saves him over $1,000 compared to the 6-year loan. James chooses 4 years but builds a $1,500 emergency fund first so an unexpected repair won't derail his payments.

This is the smart move. Stretching to 6 years means he'd be paying on the car until it has 150,000 miles—well beyond the point where he might want to replace it. The 4-year term aligns with the car's useful life and minimizes interest costs. If his budget were tighter, the 5-year option at $320 would still be reasonable.

Scenario 3: Home Improvement With Extra Payment Strategy

Sandra wants to remodel her kitchen and needs $35,000. Her credit union offers a home equity loan at 6.5% for 7 years. The monthly payment is $502, with total interest of $7,168. But Sandra gets annual bonuses averaging $4,000 and plans to put them toward the loan.

Without extra payments, she'll pay it off in 7 years spending $7,168 in interest. By applying her $4,000 bonus each year, she cuts the term to just over 4 years and reduces interest to $4,180—saving nearly $3,000. Plus, she frees up $502/month three years earlier.

Sandra's strategy works because she's being realistic. She's not assuming she'll make massive extra payments every month—that rarely happens when other expenses pop up. Instead, she's committing to lump sum payments from predictable bonuses. This structured approach pays off the loan faster without straining her monthly budget. The key is actually making those lump sum payments instead of letting them disappear into general spending.

Scenario 4: The Rate Difference That Cost $4,200

Tom needed $28,000 for medical bills. His credit score was 640, and he applied to the first lender who approved him at 14.5% for 5 years. His payment was $658 and he'd pay $11,463 in interest. He was just relieved to get approved and didn't shop around.

His cousin suggested he check a local credit union. They approved him at 9.9% for the same term. The payment dropped to $592 with $7,255 in interest—saving $66 per month and $4,208 total. Tom had to pay a $50 application fee to the credit union, but it was the easiest $4,158 he ever made by spending an extra hour applying.

The lesson: never take the first offer, especially with rates above 10%. Different lenders view risk differently. One might see you as high-risk while another views you as acceptable. The rate variation can be 4-6% between lenders for the same borrower. Apply to multiple lenders within a two-week window (credit bureaus treat it as one inquiry), compare offers, and negotiate. Tell lenders you have competing offers—they'll often beat them to get your business.

Scenario 5: Business Equipment Loan With Seasonal Income

Rachel runs a landscaping business and needs $45,000 for new equipment. Her income is seasonal—high in summer, low in winter. Most lenders offer 6.5-8% for 5-7 years. She finds a lender offering flexible payments: full payment in busy months (April-October) and interest-only during slow months (November-March).

Standard loan at 7% for 5 years: $891/month, $8,453 total interest. This would strain cash flow in winter when revenue drops. The flexible loan at 7.5% lets her pay $1,200/month in summer (7 months) and $281 interest-only in winter (5 months). She pays slightly more interest ($9,100) but avoids cash flow problems that could damage her credit or force her to miss payments.

Rachel's solution shows that the lowest rate isn't always the best option. Paying an extra $650 in interest to match loan payments with her income cycle is worth it for the peace of mind and financial stability. When your income varies significantly, look for lenders who offer payment flexibility—it's more common with business loans than personal loans, but some lenders offer seasonal payment plans for borrowers with variable income.

Strategies to Save Money on Your Loan

Once you understand how loans work, you can use specific strategies to pay less interest and get out of debt faster. These tactics work whether you're taking out a new loan or managing an existing one.

Make Extra Payments the Right Way

Extra payments are the most powerful tool for reducing loan costs, but you have to do it correctly. When you make an extra payment, specify that it goes toward principal. Some lenders will treat extra money as an advance payment (applying it to next month's payment) instead of principal reduction. That does nothing to reduce your interest costs.

The impact is significant. On a $25,000 loan at 8% over 5 years, your normal payment is $507 with $5,426 in interest. Add just $100 per month to principal and you'll pay off the loan in 3.5 years and pay only $3,665 in interest—savings of $1,761. That extra $100 per month costs you $4,100 over the shortened term but saves you $1,761, meaning you accelerate paying off $8,900 of principal for only $2,339 out of pocket.

If monthly extra payments aren't realistic, use windfalls strategically. Tax refunds, bonuses, or side income can be applied as lump sums. Even one $1,000 principal payment early in your loan can save $200-300 in interest over the loan term. The earlier you make extra payments, the more they save because you're reducing the balance that accrues interest for all remaining months.

Refinance When the Numbers Make Sense

If your credit score has improved significantly or interest rates have dropped, refinancing can cut your costs. You take out a new loan at a lower rate to pay off the existing loan. The key is doing the math carefully—refinancing costs money (application fees, origination fees, sometimes prepayment penalties on your old loan).

Example: You have three years left on a $15,000 loan at 12% with $457 monthly payments. You're going to pay $1,458 more in interest over those three years. A new lender offers refinancing at 7.5% with a 2% origination fee ($300). Your new payment would be $427, and you'd pay $873 in interest plus the $300 fee—total cost $1,173. You save $285 and lower your monthly payment by $30.

Refinancing makes sense when your savings exceed the fees by a meaningful amount, and when you'll keep the loan long enough to recover the refinancing costs. If you plan to pay off the loan in six months, paying $300 in fees to save $285 over three years is pointless. But if you'll carry it for years, the savings compound. Also watch the term—don't refinance a loan with three years left into a new five-year loan just to lower payments. You'll pay more interest overall.

Negotiate Everything Before You Sign

Most people think loan terms are fixed. They're not. The interest rate might be based on your credit score, but fees are often negotiable. Start with the origination fee—if a lender quotes 3% and you have good credit or competing offers, ask them to reduce it to 1% or waive it entirely. They'd rather cut their fee than lose your business to a competitor.

Prepayment penalties are also negotiable. If the lender includes a prepayment penalty, ask them to remove it or reduce it to one year instead of three years. Explain that you may have opportunities to pay off early and need flexibility. If they won't budge, you might accept a slightly higher interest rate in exchange for no prepayment penalty—run the numbers to see which costs less based on your plans.

Use competing offers as leverage. When you tell a lender "Bank X offered me 7.5%, can you beat that?" they'll often match or beat it to win your business. This works best with credit unions and online lenders who have lower overhead and can be more flexible. Come prepared with actual competing offers—they might ask to see the loan terms.

Choose the Right Loan Term From the Start

Loan term selection is a balance between affordable monthly payments and minimizing total interest. The longer the term, the lower your payment but the more you pay overall. Many borrowers automatically choose the longest term available to minimize monthly payments, then end up paying thousands extra in interest.

Better approach: choose the shortest term you can comfortably afford. On a $20,000 loan at 9%, a 3-year term costs $636/month with $2,902 in interest. A 6-year term costs $357/month but $5,706 in interest—you pay $2,804 more for the lower payment. If you can afford $636, the 3-year option is clearly better. If you can manage $500, consider a 4-year term at $497/month with $3,856 in interest—middle ground between cost and affordability.

One strategy: take a longer term for payment flexibility, but pay it as if it's a shorter term. A 5-year loan with $400 payments gives you breathing room, but if you consistently pay $500-600, you'll pay it off in 3-4 years and save substantially on interest. This approach gives you flexibility—if money gets tight one month, you can drop back to the minimum $400 payment without defaulting. Just make sure the loan has no prepayment penalty.

Round Up Your Payments

This simple trick requires minimal effort but adds up over time. If your loan payment is $387, round it up to $400. That extra $13 per month goes straight to principal. Over a 5-year loan, that's $780 in extra principal payments, which saves you $150-200 in interest and cuts 2-3 months off your loan term.

For even better results, round up to the nearest $50 or $100. A $463 payment rounded to $500 puts an extra $37/month toward principal. Over time this makes a significant dent. The psychological benefit is real too—it's easier to commit to paying "around $500" than to track an extra payment strategy. Set up automatic payments at the rounded amount and forget about it.

Just confirm with your lender that extra payment amounts automatically go to principal. Most do, but some require you to specify. When you set up automatic payments, include a note like "apply extra amounts to principal" to ensure it's handled correctly. You can usually verify this by checking your loan statement—it should show your principal balance dropping faster than the amortization schedule predicts.

Avoid These Money-Wasting Mistakes

Some loan mistakes cost you unnecessarily. First, skipping payments when the lender offers "payment holidays" or deferrals for good payment history. These sound helpful but interest keeps accruing on your balance. That "free" skipped payment actually costs you interest charges that month plus interest on that interest for the remaining loan term.

Second, taking cash-back refinancing offers where you refinance for more than you owe and pocket the difference. This resets your loan term and increases your balance. If you owe $12,000 with two years left and refinance for $15,000 over five years to get $3,000 cash, you're extending your debt by three years and paying interest on that $3,000 for five years. The cost of that $3,000 is really $3,000 plus hundreds in interest.

Third, paying for loan payment protection insurance. Lenders often pitch insurance that makes your payments if you lose your job or become disabled. This typically costs 1-2% of your loan amount annually and is mostly profit for the lender. The coverage often has so many exclusions it rarely pays out. You're better off building an emergency fund equal to 3-6 months of expenses, which protects you from all emergencies, not just the specific scenarios covered by loan insurance.

Common Loan Questions

What's the difference between secured and unsecured loans?

Secured loans require collateral—an asset like a car or house that the lender can take if you don't pay. Auto loans and mortgages are secured. Because the lender has less risk, secured loans typically offer lower interest rates. Unsecured loans don't require collateral but come with higher rates because the lender is taking on more risk. Personal loans and credit cards are unsecured. If you default on an unsecured loan, the lender can sue you and damage your credit, but they can't automatically seize your property.

How much loan can I afford?

Financial experts suggest your total monthly debt payments shouldn't exceed 36% of your gross income. This includes your new loan plus existing debts like credit cards, student loans, and car payments. If you earn $5,000 per month, keep total debt payments under $1,800. To calculate what you can afford, add up your current monthly debt payments, subtract from the 36% limit, and what's left is your available payment capacity. Also consider your other financial obligations—don't stretch so thin that one unexpected expense derails everything.

Should I take a shorter or longer loan term?

Shorter terms save you money on interest but have higher monthly payments. A $20,000 loan at 8% over 3 years costs $627/month with $2,572 in interest. The same loan over 5 years costs $406/month but $4,360 in interest—you pay $1,788 more for the convenience of lower payments. Choose a shorter term if you can comfortably afford the payments and want to save money. Go longer if you need breathing room in your budget or want to preserve cash flow for other goals. Just watch out for terms longer than the useful life of what you're buying—financing a car for 7 years when you'll trade it in at year 5 leaves you underwater.

What credit score do I need to get a good interest rate?

Credit scores determine your interest rate more than any other factor. With a score of 720+, you'll qualify for the best rates. Scores between 660-719 get decent rates, maybe 2-4% higher than the best. Scores of 620-659 face higher rates and fewer options. Below 620, you're in subprime territory with very high rates or outright denials. The rate difference is significant: on a $25,000 loan, the difference between 6% and 12% is $58 per month and $3,480 over 5 years. Before applying for a loan, check your credit reports for errors, pay down credit card balances below 30% of limits, and avoid opening new accounts.

What's APR and how is it different from interest rate?

The interest rate is what you pay to borrow money. APR (Annual Percentage Rate) includes the interest rate plus all fees—origination fees, processing fees, and other costs—rolled into a single percentage. A loan might have an 8% interest rate but a 9.2% APR once you factor in a $500 origination fee. APR gives you a true comparison between loans. One lender might offer 7% with high fees while another offers 8% with no fees—the APR tells you which is really cheaper. Always compare APRs, not just interest rates, when shopping for loans.

Can I pay off my loan early?

Most loans allow early payoff, but some charge prepayment penalties—fees for paying off the loan before the term ends. These penalties protect the lender from losing expected interest income. If your loan has a prepayment penalty, it's usually a percentage of the remaining balance or several months of interest. Many prepayment penalties decrease over time or disappear after a few years. Always ask about prepayment terms before signing. If you think you might pay off early, either negotiate away the prepayment penalty or factor it into your decision. Loans without prepayment penalties give you flexibility to pay off early if you come into money.

What happens if I miss a loan payment?

Missing one payment triggers a late fee, typically $25-50 or a percentage of the payment. After 30 days, the late payment gets reported to credit bureaus, dropping your score by 60-110 points. This mark stays on your credit report for 7 years. If you miss multiple payments, the loan goes into default—usually after 90-180 days depending on the lender. The lender can send your account to collections, sue you for the balance, and if it's a secured loan, repossess the collateral. If you're struggling, call your lender immediately. Many offer hardship programs—temporary payment reduction, deferment, or modified terms. They'd rather work with you than send you to collections.

Should I consolidate my loans?

Loan consolidation makes sense when you can lower your interest rate or simplify multiple payments into one. If you have several high-interest loans, consolidating into one lower-rate loan saves money and makes budgeting easier. But watch out for traps: extending your repayment period might lower monthly payments but cost you more in total interest. Also, consolidating secured debts into an unsecured loan means losing any protections the original loans had. Run the numbers carefully—compare total interest paid, not just monthly payments. Consolidation works best when you get a significantly lower rate and don't extend the term too much.

What's an origination fee and can I avoid it?

An origination fee covers the lender's cost of processing your loan—credit checks, underwriting, and paperwork. It's typically 1-6% of the loan amount, deducted from your loan proceeds or added to your balance. On a $20,000 loan with a 3% origination fee, you pay $600 either upfront or over the life of the loan. Some lenders charge no origination fees but compensate with higher interest rates. To avoid origination fees, shop around—credit unions and online lenders often have lower fees than traditional banks. You can sometimes negotiate the fee down, especially if you have excellent credit. Calculate whether paying the fee upfront for a lower rate beats skipping the fee with a higher rate.

How do I know if I'm getting a good deal on my loan?

Shop at least 3-5 lenders and compare APRs, not just interest rates. Check online lenders, credit unions, and traditional banks—they often have different risk tolerances and pricing. Get prequalified (which doesn't hurt your credit) with multiple lenders, then formally apply to your top 2-3 choices within a 14-day window—credit bureaus count multiple loan applications in a short period as one inquiry. Check reviews and BBB complaints for lenders you're considering. Beware of deals that seem too good—very low rates often come with high fees or strict terms. A good deal has competitive APR, reasonable fees, no prepayment penalties, and flexible terms if your situation changes.

Is it better to make biweekly payments or one extra payment per year?

Both strategies help you pay off your loan faster, but they work slightly differently. Biweekly payments (half your monthly payment every two weeks) results in 13 full payments per year instead of 12. One extra payment per year has the same mathematical result—you're paying an extra month's worth annually. Biweekly payments can be easier psychologically because you're spreading the extra cost throughout the year rather than coming up with a full payment at once. However, some lenders charge fees to set up biweekly payments. The simpler approach: keep your regular monthly schedule and add a little extra to each payment, or make one lump sum payment annually when you get a tax refund or bonus.

Can I get a loan with bad credit?

Yes, but expect higher interest rates and stricter terms. Lenders view low credit scores as high risk and price accordingly. With bad credit (below 620), you might pay 18-36% on a personal loan versus 6-12% with good credit. That's a huge difference—on a $15,000 loan over 5 years, 8% costs $2,430 in interest while 20% costs $6,575. Some options for bad credit: credit unions (they're often more flexible), secured loans (using collateral gets you better rates), or co-signed loans (someone with good credit shares responsibility). Before taking a high-rate loan, consider whether you can wait a year to improve your credit—paying down debts and fixing credit report errors can save you thousands in interest charges.

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